The modern cosmetology uses different types of fatty acids. They actively apply in salons, and include in the composition of cosmetics, in particular creams, lotions and tonics for domestic applications.
The acids are natural components of skin and are involved in the processes of cellular metabolism and gas exchange. The decrease in the concentration of autologous acids with age violates the normal activities of cells and is one of the aging factors of the body. Care professionals and home care to compensate for their loss and support necessary for the concentration of solutions suitable for the skin substances. Often it comes to the use of the alpha - and beta-hydroacids.
In the group carboxylic acid includes a wide range is not very acidic, content in its composition carboxyl groups. Thanks to the diversity of properties and characteristics of many of them are used with success in the field of aesthetic medicine and the manufacture of beauty products.
| Types of acids | Example | Properties | The application of the |
| Fat | |||
| Saturated | Myristic Palmitinovaja Stearic | Emulsifiers, stabilizers | On the basis of these fatty acids is created of many varieties of soap. Acids and their esters are used in the manufacture of cosmetics as stabilizers are emulsions. |
| Unsaturated | Linoleic Linolenic acid Oleic | To compensate for the deficit epidermal lidido and strengthens the epidermal barrier. By creating a protective film, prevent the evaporation of moisture from the skin. Are antioxidants. | Are included in the night and a day cream, milk for cleansing the skin. |
| Fruit | |||
| Alpha-hydroacids(AHA -acids) | Glycolic Dairy Amber Lipoic acid Vigilantem Malic Lemon Pyruvic et al. | Eliminate hyperkeratosis, to create conditions to improve the moisture of the skin. Stimulate the production of ceramides, collagen fibers. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. | At concentrations up to 10% are used in cosmetic products: cream, lotion, tonic , particularly for home care. The concentrations apply only in the salons of conditions for the holding of the exfoliations and peels superficial. |
| Beta-hydroacids(ANS-acid) | Salicylic | Exfoliates the stratum corneum, reduces the production of sebum, eliminates the impurities out of the pores. Anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory. | Used for peels: you-same as an exfoliator or as a base for complex medio peels - Gessner or retinoic acid transport. Included in creams, lotions, tonic for oily and problem skin. |
| Polyhydroxylated (VISUAL) | Gluconic acid | Has a high-molecular-weight, more respectful of the impact, without causing irritation. Prevents aging, stimulates the production of elastin, improves the protective properties of the skin. Blocks up to 50% of UV radiation. | Is included in the anti-age is a program of care of skin with heightened sensitivity. |
| Trihloruksusnaya acid(TCA) | Penetrates the skin more deeply than fruit acids. The principle of action - clotting proteins. | For medio peels TCA. | |
Fruit AHA-acids, water, and BHA the fat-soluble. That is the fundamental difference determines the modalities of application of the fatty acids of cosmetology. The most famous is the BHA-salicylic acid - penetrates through the lipid barrier of the depth in the pore, and thus is able to influence on the sebaceous glands and decrease the excessive activity. Its main destination is the treatment of acne and blackheads, rejuvenation, oily and problem skin. AHA-acids are more suitable for the care of the skin, in photodamage, blotches, age, hyperkeratosis and dryness. Polyacids VISUAL are appointed for the skins sensitive to stress, with the bottom of local immunity.
The glycolic acid in cosmetics is the most effective and therefore the most studied of all AHA-acids. She has acquired considerable popularity after that it has been proven its ability to increase the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and collagen in the dermis. An additional advantage of glycolic acid is a relatively good market for the production of sugar cane. Dermatologists Medical university, Wakayama (Japan) have demonstrated the efficacy of high concentrations of this substance in the treatment of severe acne. The glycolic acid in cosmetics is also applied with success to improve the level of moisture of all layers of the skin.
Is to say, Ia Hernandez in her book "Cosmetic peels" refers to a number of reputation of the research in cosmetology, who spoke about the application of glycolic acid as a function of concentration:
On the second place in popularity, and study cosmetology, the penalty of the lactic acid. Also, like glycolic acid, this substance also has a good take off the action and helps to eliminate the signs of chrono - and photoaging. The degree of effectiveness of the lactic acid is a little less, but the risk of irritation of its application below.
Lactic acid is considered as the most physiological for the skin. Its molecules on an atom of most molecules of glycolic acid, so they are more slowly and more regularly penetrate the epidermis and destroy intercellular connection. Created by the lactic acid Wednesday, prevents the development of pathogenic bacteria, increases lipid coat and strengthens the skin immunity. These properties with less aggression warranted the application of the lactic acid in the cosmetology on sensitive patients, the skin problems. Its concentration in the media for at-home care varies from 3.5 to 10 percent.
Amber acid in cosmetics called life-giving elixir for the aging of the skin. It clears up the excess dye, nourishes and smoothes piderme. Succinic acid - a powerful catalyst for the synthesis of adenosine triphosphate (ATP), which plays an important role in the exchange. Thanks to these properties, the succinic acid in cosmetology is present in many anti-aging program, funding for the home care of aging skin. Is the vivifying source of the strength to the hair.
Alpha-lipoic acid in cosmetics is not a scrub. It is a powerful antioxidant, crushing the activity of a broad spectrum of free radicals - the aging of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and pigmentation. High efficiency of lipoic acid is due to its ability to dissolve in the water and in a lipid environment, which sets it apart from many other antioxidants are substances, in particular vitamins c and E. at the same time, it does not block the action, and reinforces it.
Alpha-lipoic acid (vitamin N) prevents the glycation process, during which occurs the connection of the collagen fibers with glucose molecules and decreases the activity of the elastin. She repeatedly accelerates the metabolism of glucose, and slows down the deformation of the skin of the face. Thanks to treatment at the beautician and regular application of funds with the lipoic acid may occur reversibility of the process of glycation and reduce the signs of aging.
Alpha-lipoic acid in cosmetics is also used with success in the treatment of acne scars, acne, and the consequences of rosacea. It normalizes the activity of sebaceous glands, reduces the severity of the pores of the skin, restores the cell membrane and protects the DNA against the aggressions of the external environment.
Powerful exfoliate - the main advantage of salicylic acid in cosmetics. This is the most common VNA acid capable of dissolving the links between Cornea cells even in the depths of the pores, that is to say, to destroy blackheads. In parallel with it as a derivative of aspirin reduces the inflammation, reduces the infectious process and speeds up the healing process. A set of properties and antibacterial effect to deep cleanse determine the use of salicylic acid in cosmetics to work with problems of oily skin. The concentration of salicylic acid in creams, tonics for use in the home should not exceed two per cent.
Mainly of the acid in the salon of cosmetology shall apply to the form peels.
1. Exfoliation and peels superficial AHA-acids
The link hyperkeratosis of many skin diseases has been proved yet in the 80 years of the last century in the first study of the AHA. Removal of the old layer of the cornea acids are considered as the safest. Choose the right concentration of alpha-hydroacids do not cause burning of the skin and gently destroys desmosomes - strong intercellular connection of keratinized cells.
Later, have proved the ability of the AHA-acids to penetrate more deeply into the horny layer and stimulate the active processes in the skin. Due to the dissolution dense clutches occur microcirculatory bed of the river, in the deep layers of the skin is easier to penetrate other active substances, found at an advanced stage of the procedure.
The effect of peeling and the depth of penetration of the acid depends on its concentration and ph:
Concentrations of fatty acids are permitted for domestic use, medium and high-end are treated as drugs, are appointed by a doctor-beautician appropriate and statements and are used for the care professionals in the clinic or on the inside.
Positive changes of peels AHA-acids not come immediately. For a notable effect of a 6-10 procedures with a periodicity of 7 to 14 days. However, because of the exchange rate to the skin has time to completely update it without heavy rehabilitation, peeling, and severe post-gluma risk.
2. Peels BHA
Peels with salicylic acid are widely used for the treatment of acne, scarring and scars, the acne, the alignment of the skin relief. This acid is included in the compositions powerful rejuvenation peels, in some cases, is used as a guide for a retinoic acid transport. Salicylic peels - the true salvation for persons 4 and 5 phototypes of skin. By acting as a mild exfoliant, it does not cause post-gluma complications dark people.
3. Medium peels acids
The mechanism of action hydroacids do not allow them to penetrate into the middle layer of the epidermis, even the increase of the concentration. Therefore, for a more in-depth analysis of the update of your skin apply to other types of fatty acids. Trihloruksusnaya acid (TCA) coagulates the protein, causing a controlled chemical burn. In the process of recovery is product activates the regeneration and proliferation of the cells than the epidermis and the dermis. Net of retinoic acid - a derivative of vitamin A in the exfoliation process interacts with the fibroblasts, increasing their activity and thereby increases the synthesis of elastin, collagen and hyaluronic acid.
Concentrations of fatty acids are included in the sets professional cosmetic dodges and cosmetics for the home. The regular use of these tools is a more gentle, but a sustainable outcome.
Fatty acids with nutritional properties are often the basis for creams. Amino acids are the proteins are important for the production of active components of skin extracellular matrix and are suitable for all skin types. The weaker forms of the acid retinoid containing creams and serums for rejuvenation, treatment of acne, rosacea and dermatitis.
Hydroxy acid are useful at any age and are included in the recipes of creams, tonics and serums. Salicylic acid is the most often in cosmetics for teenagers, for oily and problem skin.
Regular exfoliation after 40 is a condition of the age, of care. A mandatory requirement of the use of products hydroacids - protection against solar radiation, therefore, many of them contain UV filters.
Even with a low content of fatty acids, it is recommended to apply under the supervision of a doctor. Buy, more easy for the beautician, who is an aesthetic program of the correction. Many professional medications that can be used in the living room and the house, in order to control the entry of fatty acids of the skin will be more practical.